Frequently Asked Questions

RetroFoam™ FAQ's

I don’t think I have any wall insulation… How do I find out?
The easiest way to check if you have insulation in your walls is to have an outlet plate on one of the exterior walls removed,and look into the wall cavity with a flashlight.
Can I have RetroFoam installed from the exterior on part of the house, and then some installation completed from the inside on the remainder of the house?
Yes. Your licensed RetroFoam™ installer will work with you to suit your particular needs.
How frequently spaced are the injection holes?
This will depend on the age and/or construction of your house, and should be discussed at the time of quotation.
How does the RetroFoam™ licensed installer know when a wall cavity is completely full of foam?
The unique nature of RetroFoam™ being a liquid form with the consistency of shaving cream when injected, allows it to flow around any obstacles including water pipes and wiring without getting caught up, filling the entire cavity. Your licensed RetroFoam installer is a professional and approaches every job in a tradesman like manner, by applying a combination of techniques including; timing the cavity fill, methodical placement of the insertion holes, and with back-pressure on the insertion hole, he is able to ensure a cavity is full.
RetroFoam contains water when it is first installed. Where does it go? Will it damage the walls?
The initial water content of the foam is about 4% by volume, that is too low to affect a building’s structure. The partially open-cell nature of the foam means the insulation dries out quickly. Once dry, RetroFoam resists re-absorption of water. Mold can occur whenever wetness gets trapped inside a wall. Usually the foam dries out before mold can grow. If mold is an issue Insulguard or MoldProof can be added to the foam to kill any existing mold and prevent any future problems that might occur.
Is it safe to fill the cavity of a brick veneer home… I thought there needed to be a ventilation space between the brick and wood framework?
A common misconception with brick construction is that the gap between the wood stud and brick surface is there for ventilation. This is partially correct, however the primary purpose of this gap is to keep moisture traveling through the brick, which is porous, from touching the wood and sheathing. If the wood is in contact with brick it will take up moisture which causes the wood to rot. RetroFoam is breathable, but also repels water. The foam fills the whole cavity space providing a suitable thermal barrier, without transferring moisture to the wood.
Will installation disrupt my home?
There is very little disruption to the household during the RetroFoam™ process. Installation typically takes 1-2 days to complete.
Will RetroFoam cause a fire hazard in the walls?
No. RetroFoam™ has a Class I fire rating which means it is non-combustible. Even in intense heat, RetroFoam™ will not burn, or melt, however it will char, lose weight and disintegrate.
Does RetroFoam corrode the plastic coating on the electrical wires inside the walls?
No. Unlike some plastics, RetroFoam™ will not react with plastic coated cabling/wiring.
Will RetroFoam cause dampness?
No. When RetroFoam™ is exposed to water is is hydrophobic – meaning it sheds water rather than holds it. Even when immersed in water, RetroFoam ™ absorbs only a small amount of water which quickly evaporates when it is removed from water. As with most insulation materials Retrofoam™ will become water-logged when exposed to water over a long period of time.
Will RetroFoam shrink and deteriorate with age, thereby losing its insulation properties?
To a small degree. Some initial shrinkage is normal but investigators show that RetroFoam™ maintains its physical and insulation properties. In fact, 15 and 20-year-old foam has been found equivalent in insulation performance to new foam. Often the void space from shrinkage is less than what can be achieved when installing fiberglass bat insulation.